Johnston Canyon - Winter or summer?
With easy access and well maintained boardwalks Johnston Canyon is one of Banff’s most popular hikes and has something to offer at any time of year. However the big question always is: Is it better to visit in winter or summer?
The ‘secret cave’ just off trail near the lower falls. From May 15th to November 15th this area is inaccessible due to a closure to protect nesting Black Swifts.
This restricted activity orders are strictly enforced and violators could be fined up to $25,000 so it’s best to follow the rules!
The stats
Time: 1.5 - 2.5h hours depending on crowds!
Distance: 5.5 km
Elevation Gain: 150 m of gain to the upper falls
Access: In some ways access to Johnston Canyon is pretty straight forward however on the other hand it can be very difficult! There is a large car park at the trailhead to this hike however during the busy seasons (which in all honesty is becoming more year round nowadays) this car park can fill up really, really quickly and there will be cars parked down the road.
If you choose to to this trail I highly recommend going either in winter, or in summer go very early in the morning or very late in the evening! That way you’re more likely to get a parking spot and also see the trail with less crowds.
The car park is situated about 25 km from Banff, about a 20 - 30 minute drive. However during a good portion of summer sections of the Bow Valley Parkway have been closed to traffic to allow cyclists to take advantage of the road. This means most likely you’ll have to drive down highway 1 heading west from Banff until you hit the Castle Junction turning. Come off the free way here and then take a right back on to the Bow Valley Parkway and on to the car park.
If you don’t have a car don’t worry this is one hike that is regularly serviced by some fantastic tour companies allowing you to not stress about parking and timings and giving you the opportunity to learn more about the area with an experienced guide.
The hike
Johnston Canyon is an easily accessible, family friendly trail which offers some fantastic waterfall viewing. It’s also one of the most popular trails in the Banff region and ends up on almost every visitors list. Because of this the trail can be incredibly busy at the height of the day during the summer months so if you aren’t able to get there super early be prepared to be waiting in queues at certain view points.
The good news is though that the trail is accessible and open year round allowing for a fantastic winter hike. In all honesty I almost prefer it on a super cold morning when the waterfalls have frozen, there are ice climbers around and there are less people on the trail. It makes for some great winter photography!
There are two main waterfalls on the Johnston Canyon Trail lower falls and upper falls. From the trail head the lower falls are just over 1 km away and are probably the most scenic of the two. To get there you’ll simply follow a very well marked and well maintained trail that is connected via a series of boardwalks that run along the canyon walls.
During winter this trail will be very, very slippery! It’s common to see visitors holding on to the hand railings for dear life as they struggle to find their footing. You can rent or buy micro-spikes pretty much anywhere in the town of Banff so be sure to go prepared!
The first section of trail is very straight forward. You’ll spot the very obvious trailhead signs as soon as you get to the car park!
The boardwalks that follow the canyon walls.
Crossing this bridge and heading through the tunnel will get you the best views of lower falls. In the summer at peak times of day there can be a queue all the way across this bridge and through the tunnel. This is why personally I prefer visiting in winter early in the day when the crowds are much smaller.
Lower Falls
In winter the lower falls form stunning ice formations often with an open pool in the water below. The blue ice contrasting with the red rock makes for some great images.
From here some people choose to turn back which is a perfect little excursion for young kids! However if you want to go further afield the upper falls await!
This is where you’ll get the majority of elevation gain but it is by no means particularly steep. Either way make sure you have those micro spikes with you if visiting in the winter!
From the lower falls to the upper falls it’s about another 1.2 - 1.5 km again along very well maintained and well marked trails.
The upper falls are larger and more impressive than the lower falls so well worth the walk. In the winter you’ll also be able to spend some time watching ice climbers scale the impressive frozen structures.
Pros and Cons of Summer and Winter
Summer Pros
Long days meaning you can visit very first thing in the morning or late at night when the crowds are quieter.
Get to witness the canyon and waterfalls at full flow.
Higher chances of seeing wildlife on trail.
Pathway is easier to navigate, no special equipment needed!
Summer Cons
It can be very, very busy! If you visit during the middle of the day expect queues and big crowds.
Can’t access the secret cave due to closures put in place to protect Black Swift populations.
Car park fills up fast so you may have to park further down the road.
Winter Pros
Frozen waterfalls and cool ice formations all over the place!
Can waste away the day watching ice climbers do their thing.
Can access the secret cave without disturbing the nesting Black Swifts.
Much quieter on trail, especially first thing in the morning.
More likely to find a parking spot!
Winter Cons
The trail is very slippery so can be difficult for some.
You’ll need to get hold of some ice cleats before hand to safely navigate the trail.
It can be very, very cold so you’ll need to wrap up warm!
Things to Know Before you Go!
Summer Vs Winter
As I mentioned before this trail is open year round. In the summer the days are long and the water running freely whilst in winter you’ll be met with a bitter cold and frozen waterfalls. Personally I think I prefer visiting in the winter for a couple of reasons.
In winter you get some beautiful ice formations that are great for a bit of abstract photography and watching the ice climbers is a great way to waste away the day. Of course this does mean it can be very cold and the trail very slippery so be sure to wrap up warm with lots of layers and take some micro spikes!
Micro Spikes!
If you’re heading in to Johnston Canyon during winter or to the Rockies in general I’d highly recommend some good quality micro spikes.
Get these at Backcountry.com
Black Swifts
From May 15th to November 15th any off trail activity at Johnston Canyon is strictly prohibited to protect nesting Black Swift populations. This means accessing the secret cave isn’t possible.
Litter
Johnston Canyon is a very busy and popular trail which unfortunately means over the years there has been more and more trash left on the trail and dropped over the sides of the boardwalk. As with any trail or even any place you are visiting don’t litter. Pack in what you pack out and if you can pick up any litter you see that’s been dropped and hike it out, there are plenty of trash cans in the trailhead parking lot.
Offline maps
Knowing where you’re going is super important as to not get lost on your way home. I recommend All Trails Plus for finding routes and offline mapping allowing you to safely find your way home.
More Day Hikes: If you’re in the Rockies for a few days don’t forget to check out the other day hikes in the Canadian Rockies.
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The East End of Rundle, commonly know as EEOR has to be one of my favourite hikes close to Canmore. It also offers some of the best sunset photography in the Rockies.